A book I highly recommend is Mexico City "An Opinionated Guide For the Curious Traveler" by Jim Johnson. He is an ex-pat who has lived here for about 10 years. In it are all kinds of alternative or creative tour suggestions.
This Sunday I took his walking tour of San Angel, a small colonial town about 6 miles south of the center of Mexico City. The tour is exact in what you are seeing ..with directions and great descriptions. Most of the places are popular but he also includes some more obscure locations as well....I certainly felt off the beaten path at times.
I started with Museo del Carmen, a 17th century convent...well preserved with religious artwork and even mummified nuns. Then the Casa del Risco, with a beautiful courtyard that included a fountain made from talavera plates and mother of pearl shells! Beautiful.
Next, was the Parróquia de San Jacinto, an operating church with a gilded baroque chapel and beautiful courtyard as well. The jacaranda tree (bursting with purple blossoms) were everywhere in the neighhoods....it is their season to bloom.
The next place was Plaza de los Arcángeles, a residential enclave with a small park, cobblestone streets and a plethora of bougainvilleas. Some of the houses had "Venta" or For Sale signs on them.....I thought to myself, how much to live in this paradise?
Finally, I headed over the the San Angel Inn and Restaurant, which sits across from the Diego and Frida Art Studio Museum. The Studio was designed by Juan O'Gorman and feels very personal with relics of everyday life with the artists.
The San Angel Inn and Restaurant was a real treat. It has a history dating back to 1692 as a Hacienda, then to the first Spanish Ambassador's residence, Santa Ana's refuge for planning the Battle of Chapultepec with Pancho Villa and Zapata and then into an elegant inn and restaurant. It has been visited by Princes, Princesses, U.S. presidents and many movie stars. Prices are expensive and you do get what you pay for....incredible ambiance, sustenance and libation. Perfect end to a wonderful visit to San Angel.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
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