Flash Back to the 60's -Tepoztlán

Tepoztlán - reminded me of a small hippie community from the 60's. This village is to the south of the D.F. about an hour. All the streets are cobblestone and a bit hard on the ankles and feet...but add to the appeal of this charming town.It is known to be an escape for the wealthy city dwellers of Mexico City on week-ends and there are some beautiful homes on the mountains behind gated walls.

On all the streets you will find holistic types of food and miscellaneous products for sale (massage for $5.00/15min) My favorite were the tamales made from plums without any lard...which is usually a common ingredient in tamales. I also tried their diabetic cookies made from all kinds of nuts and grains...delicious!

The main attraction to this village other than its ambiance, is the climb up a steep rocky trail to the pyramid of Tepozteco... a remnant of a pyramid. The top is supposedly an area of healing and spiritual rejuvenation, with an impressive view of the town below and a killer view of the Sierra of Tepozteco. My companions on this trip were two ex-Fulbright teachers from Mexico, Alex and Hilaria. Lovely way to spend a beautiful Sunday afternoon.

Shop til You Drop - Oaxaca City

Just kidding, but the city is definitely my favorite for artesanias...the rich colors and designs are very unique. I bought several pieces of the black pottery they are know for, 3 Huipiles ( a very comfortable tunic type blouse), a purse, a richly embroidered blouse, Oaxaca cheese and chocolate ... you get the idea.

This area has much more than shopping to offer though. I met my fellow Fulbright colleague Nancy King and we toured relentlessly for 3 days. This included a trip to Monte Alban the 1500 year old Zapotecan ruins right outside the city, also popping in and out of several 15th century churches beautifully decorated for the Easter week that it was, seeing the beautiful Santo Domingo church ( a real jaw dropper) complete with a very historical convent next door, visiting El Tule-a 2,000 year old tree, and ate some unusual food dishes known to this area, such as chapulinas (crickets cooked in oil and onions).

Visiting the churches during this time is a real treat given the Catholic heritage that prevails in Mexico. The scents of Easter lilies on all the alters was wonderful. It was a very festive time indeed. There was non-stop celebration with music, balloons, lots of tourists and just a feeling of joy in the air.

In the convent there were many exhibits of value including a list of the 15 Indian groups out of the 56 known in Mexico that exist in the state of Oaxaca. Pluralism is overwhelming with women walking around wearing their native clothing regularly. One tribe that was mentioned in the museum and lives in a small town named Santiago Zochilo outside Oaxaca City , still practices something called El Tequio. "El Tequio es unidad que se une el pueblo". Translation is they work together to feed the entire village, growing crops, cooking and everything else. Beautiful concept.

I definitely suggest a trip to Oaxaca City! If I were going to redecorate my house this would be my 1st choice for purchases......

Visiting the Tropics

It's Spring break! First trip was to the tropics or Cozumel Mexico. It is a small island in the state of Quintana Roo...furthest point south in Mexico. It is known internationally for it's high quality scuba diving on the Palancar reef and others..which are like a whole other world below the ocean. The Caribbean waters are beautiful colors of turquoise, azure and whatever color of blue you can think of. Another claim to fame it has are the non-stop arrivals of cruise ships. Every day at least four were in port except for Sunday....everyone relaxes on that day. We enjoyed unlimited shore diving in front of our hotel, I went on 2 boat dives while Brian, my husband went on a four.

We toured the island in a car one day..this consists of one main road which encircles the island in about 30 miles. The eastern side of the island is the windy side with big waves which attract surfers. The primary mode of transport on this beautiful island is scooters... I think I could live here.

San Angel Tour

A book I highly recommend is Mexico City "An Opinionated Guide For the Curious Traveler" by Jim Johnson. He is an ex-pat who has lived here for about 10 years. In it are all kinds of alternative or creative tour suggestions.

This Sunday I took his walking tour of San Angel, a small colonial town about 6 miles south of the center of Mexico City. The tour is exact in what you are seeing ..with directions and great descriptions. Most of the places are popular but he also includes some more obscure locations as well....I certainly felt off the beaten path at times.

I started with Museo del Carmen, a 17th century convent...well preserved with religious artwork and even mummified nuns. Then the Casa del Risco, with a beautiful courtyard that included a fountain made from talavera plates and mother of pearl shells! Beautiful.

Next, was the Parróquia de San Jacinto, an operating church with a gilded baroque chapel and beautiful courtyard as well. The jacaranda tree (bursting with purple blossoms) were everywhere in the neighhoods....it is their season to bloom.

The next place was Plaza de los Arcángeles, a residential enclave with a small park, cobblestone streets and a plethora of bougainvilleas. Some of the houses had "Venta" or For Sale signs on them.....I thought to myself, how much to live in this paradise?

Finally, I headed over the the San Angel Inn and Restaurant, which sits across from the Diego and Frida Art Studio Museum. The Studio was designed by Juan O'Gorman and feels very personal with relics of everyday life with the artists.

The San Angel Inn and Restaurant was a real treat. It has a history dating back to 1692 as a Hacienda, then to the first Spanish Ambassador's residence, Santa Ana's refuge for planning the Battle of Chapultepec with Pancho Villa and Zapata and then into an elegant inn and restaurant. It has been visited by Princes, Princesses, U.S. presidents and many movie stars. Prices are expensive and you do get what you pay for....incredible ambiance, sustenance and libation. Perfect end to a wonderful visit to San Angel.

Ashes and Snow

We are so fortunate to be in the International Cosmopolitan Capital of Mexico City! The incredible International Nomadic art and theatre exposition of Ashes and Snow is here from 15th December thru 27th April. In a nutshell:
A. sponsored by the Rolex Institute
B. Canadian artist, Gregory Colbert who studied in Paris and traveled around the world for the past 16 years to capture interactions between man and nature thru video and still-photography, resulting in this expo
C. all shots are natural....not digitally altered...done in black, white ...no color
D. 50 large-scale photographic artworks, 60 minute video, and 2 short film
E. 6,000 sq. metre bamboo building it is housed in: built by Columbian architect, Simón Veléz
complete with shallow water canals under the photographs and 3 theatres

It is free of charge for the people of Mexico City and tourists alike. The wait varies depending on the time of day etc. I waited about an hour in a very patient and organized line of mostly Mexican citizens. What can I say.... it was breath-taking and inspirational. The photos I included were posters being sold in a souvenir shop.